Narrow or Single-minded?

Anthony Rose introduces a tasting of
increasingly fashionable but still controversial and recherché
single-vineyard Champagnes, at which he was joined by
Essi Avellan MW and Michael Edwards

If the French belief in terroir is to be taken as gospel,
most Champagne should be considered not a vin de
terroir at all but a vin d’assemblage. The structure of the
Champagne vineyards, whose growers own 88 percent
of them, determines that the majority of négociant
and cooperative-produced Champagnes—Non-Vintage