The chief medical officer’s proposals to slap 50p a unit of alcohol on booze have caused a stir. Conveniently forgetting for one moment that it had recently imposed two duty increases, with further rises to follow, the government said that raising prices would be punishing the majority for the sins of the minority (read: ‘sales would go down and we wouldn’t be able to raise as much tax’). You can imagine the cmo’s proposals going down like the proverbial lead balloon too in the wines, beers and spirits departments of supermarkets throughout the land. Tesco said it needed to ensure that ‘we do not hit the vast majority of people who buy and consume alcohol responsibly’ (read: ‘our profits would suffer’).

It may not be joined up, but the cmo’s writing for cheap booze has been on the wall for some time. Supermarkets have been justifiably criticised for too many meretricious bogof (buy-one-get-one-free) and unsustainable get three for £10 promotions. And how did they respond? As the recession started biting, the likes of Tesco and Sainsbury’s brought in their recession-busters at knockdown prices. These weren’t wine drinkers’ wines. They were cheap alcohol aimed at selling maximum volumes and bringing in ‘footfall’ no matter what the cost. Janet Street-Porter is not wrong when she asks: ‘is wine that costs less than £3 being consumed for its taste or simply as a legal alternative to recreational drugs? We don’t treat alcoholic drinks with any respect. They are simply a means to an end’.

Basket Case. Pic: img.thisismoney.co.uk

You don’t have to go that far back in time, less than two years in fact, to remember that Tesco was proudly announcing a brave new dawn and ‘the most diverse and exciting supermarket range in the UK’. Promising fewer promotions and an expansion of the fine wine range with a new venture into 180 fine wines, no less, it won the Wine Challenge supermarket of the year award in 2007. Fully expecting to triumph at the Decanter Awards last year, as the head of booze Dan Jago came up on stage only to collect the runner-up award, he whispered in my ear that Tesco would still win at the Wine Challenge awards three days later. Lo! M&S ran off with the trophy. So did this year’s recent Tesco Spring tasting reflect the long-awaited new dawn?

It didn’t show the new recession-busting cheapies, but instead, there were some bright sparks on offer for the cash-strapped like the Gran Tesoro wines from Spain, a white, a red and a rosé, all good cheap summer drinking at £3.49. So far so good, but a neutral range of pinot grigios from around the world left me underwhelmed. And did I detect a quality dumbing down in some of the Tesco Finest range? The 2008 Tesco Finest Denman Vineyard Chardonnay, once delicious, was confected and sawdusty, the Tesco Finest Darling Sauvignon had lost all its delicious gooseberry flavours and Tesco Finest Gigondas was off the boil. Even the 2008 St.Hallett Poachers Blend and the 2008 Cono Sur Pinot Noir seemed dilute.

Looking on the bright side, the 2007 Les Montgolfiers Sauvignon Blanc Gros Manseng, £6.99, was a welcome addition, a grapefruity zestily refreshing dry white Gascon blend, as was another newcomer, 2008 The Harbour Chardonnay-Semillon, £9.99, showing classic pineappley flavour and citrusy acidity. From the Finest range, the 2008 Los Nogales Sauvignon Blanc, £7.54, the 2008 Block 7A Viognier, £7.19, and lime zesty tongue-tingling 2008 Finest Tingleup Great Southern Riesling are all worthy successors. And reds? For value, the spicy, vivid 2007 Mont Tauch Winegrowers Reserve Fitou, £5.99, and cherryish 2005 Finest Barbera d’Asti. For quality, a succulent 2006 Cosme Palacio Rioja, £8.99, and a deliciously peppery 2006 Gimblett Gravels Syrah, £8.21, from Hawkes Bay in New Zealand. Every little helps.

Check out what we said about Tesco 20 years ago: http://www.anthonyrosewine.com/article/independent/tesco

Something For the Weekend 4 April 2009

Under a Fiver

2006 Syrah, Cave de Saint Désirat, Vin de Pays de l’Ardèche

The Ardèche in south-eastern France is the origin of this attractive young syrah, whose fresh raspberry-like aromas and juicy summer berry fruitiness make this an easy, everyday red glugger perfect for washing down anything from pizza to grilled meats. £5.99, buy 2 = £4.99, Majestic.

Under a Tenner

2007 Château Gaillard Reuilly, Loire.

From Nathalie Lefond and Stéphane Vaillant, this crisp, aromatic dry white Sancerre-alike, aptly named as gaillard means sprightly in French, shows pure, full-flavoured Loire Valley sauvignon blanc with fine-textured, stonefruit and gooseberry flavours and the Loire’s flinty minerality. £9.99, Marks & Spencer.

Splash Out

2004 Alter Ego de Château Palmer

Serious claret of the sort you’re always hoping for but so rarely actually come across: from a good bordeaux vintage, this second label of the Margaux estate, Palmer, is all about aroma and fresh, elegant black fruit flavour, delivered with a smidgeon of spicy oak, fresh acidity and lovely succulently textured tannins; still youthful but just coming into its drinking window. £29.99, reduced from £39.99, Sainsbury’s Fine Wine, to 14 April.