After Nacho Manzano’s divine beetroot gazpacho soup at Ibérica in Marylebone, I was excited to see what David Muñoz, the boyish chef of two-Michelin star DiverXO in Madrid, could do. Muñoz was invited as Manzano’s guest to cook dinner at the new Ibérica in Canary Wharf. In the hands of anyone less talented, a dish like crisp oxtail sandwich with baby eel, jalapenos and finger lime, or potsticker Shanghai of pitu Caleya with its own broth, sea urchin, chipotle chilli and shitake, might seem pretentious.

David Muñoz

But no, his nine Asian-influenced dishes represented the best of modern Spain’s culinary re-interpretation of tradition. In this way, a traditional Asturias potsticker was transformed into a visually imaginative and delicious combination. In tandem with this typically modernising trend, new Spanish cooking is now able to reply on a vastly improved source of wines to accompany the great variety of signature tapas dishes we’re seeing in the best new tapas bars and restaurants.

Ibérica Canary Wharf

The recent Wines of Spain awards confirmed the extraordinary variety now coming out of Spain at both value and quality level. Imaginative blends like the delicious peaches and cream garnacha blanca, viognier and roussane in the 2011 La Báscula, Catalan Eagle from Terra Alta, around £11, Highbury Vintners (02072261347), Noel Young, Cambridge (01223566744) mingle with international–influenced combinations in the complex, rich white Burgundy like 2011 Raimat Xarel-lo-Chardonnay, £10, Noel Young.

Traditional stonefruity whites such as the 2011 Godello Pazos del Rey, Monterrei, £9.99, Marks & Spencer, sit happily alongside the brilliant intensity of citrus-etched, peachy fruit in the 2011 Albariño Fillaboa, Rias Baixas, around £14.99, Amps Fine Wines, Oundle (01832273502), The Ox House, Glos (01451 860650).

We’re equally spoilt for reds. Take for instance the youthful primary berry fruit of the 2011, Gran Vega Garnacha from Bodegas Borsão in Campo de Borja. £4.99, virginwines.com, or the spicy raspberryish mazuelo and shiraz blend supported by chocolatey oak in the approachably modern 2011 Toronegro from Extremadura, £6.99, The Co-op. Or the rustic, pepper-infused and strawberryish 2011 Bodegas Esteban Martin Vinem Garnacha, from Carinena, £7.74, George Hill of Loughborough (01509212717) and the vibrant red berry fruit in the 2011 Pazo das Tapias Alma de Tinto, Monterrei, £9.99, Great Western Wine, Bath (01225 322810).

Alvaro Palacios’ 2010 the Petalos, Bierzo, Descendientes de J.Palacios, around £17.45, Roberson (02073712121), Majestic, is a model of the best of the new Spain, a red whose complex aromas and flavours combine a black cherry intensity and concentration with deliciously creamy oak and liquorice spice. All mulberry fruit underpinned by spicy oak with succulent Ribera-style acidity, the Wines of Spain awards winner was the 2009 Vina Pedrosa Crianza, Bodegas Perez Pascuas, Ribera del Duero, £23.85, £23.85, Loki Wines, Birmingham (0121 212 9440). For the David Muñoz menu and pictures, please see www.anthonyrosewine.com.

Something For the Weekend 20 October 2012

Night In

2011 Cosmina Pinot Noir Banat, Romania

Gone is the tired, old-fashioned tomato-skin Romanian pinot noir of yesteryear and in its place a juicy, ripe soft-centred mulberry and cherry-filled modern red neatly flecked with a touch of oak spice; eminently and encouragingly quaffable. £6.99, Waitrose.

Dinner Party

2007 Noster Nobilis La Perla Del Priorat

Thanks to an old vines blend of grenache, carignan and cabernet sauvignon, this vibrant, youthful red tastes rich and powerful, its dark berryish fruit framed by a firm muscular grip and a lively damson plum freshness. £9.98, Asda

Splash Out

2009 Fromm La Strada Syrah, Marlborough

Seductive Kiwi syrah with juniper and liquorice spice underpinned by elegant peppery and raspberryish fruit in the style of the northern Rhône’s Côte Rôtie, if a shade more opulent. Around £20, Windermere Wine Shop (015394 46891) Caviste (01256 771080).

David Muñoz

This is the DiverXO menu devised by David Muñoz for the evening at Iberica Canary Wharf. I took pics of all the dishes except for the Kimchi Strawberries, sheep yoghurt and coffee with baby squid on the grill, which was the only dish that was less than amazing.

The wines were:

Fernando de Castilla Antique Fino
Bodegas Tradicion Palo Cortado
Navaherreros Blanco de Bernabelevea 2010 D.O.Vinos de Madrid San Martin de Valdelglesias
Treintamil Maravedies Garnacha and Syrah 2010 D.O. Vinos de Madrid San Martin de Valdelglesias
Navaherreros Garnacha de Bernabeleva 2009 D.O. Vinos de Madrid San Martin de Valdelglesias

Young coconut spicy soup, baby scallops, cockles and fresh white beans (pochos) Fritura diverXo style
Crispy oxtail sandwich with baby eel, jalapenos and finger lime
Potsticker Shanghai of pitu Caleya with its own broth, sea urchin, chipotle chilli and shiitake
Creamy black trumpet and milk skin bun, gazpacho emulsion, semi-dried tomatoes and kumquats
Wood-smoked tuna bonito belly, fried eggs, mujol roe and tamarillo ketchup
Wagyu beef, marinated tomato, herring condiment, tamarind and peanuts
Wild boar civet of black cod, parsnip and licorice
Guava, rhubarb, pink pepper and butter, black truffle