My secret is out: I’m not generally the world’s greatest fan of sauvignon blanc. Like any other grape though grown in a location suited to its character, sauvignon can transcend the one-dimensional nettle, asparagus and gooseberry characters that are its hallmark and mutate into a wine of greater enjoyment.

I was anticipating some excitement at a blind tasting of premium oaked sauvignon blancs from around the world put on in London by Yvon Mau’s enterprising head honcho, Jean-Christophe Mau, and Richard Bampfield MW. As I know from my favourite oaked sauvignon, Domaine de Chevalier, alas not present, oak can transform the humble grape into a creamy-textured dry white that goes with a wider range of food than its unoaked counterpart.

Of the 32 wines on the block, 21 were from the New World and only 11 from Europe. Six from Bordeaux, two from the Loire, two from Italy and one Turkish sauvignon went head to head with seven from New Zealand, six from South Africa, three apiece from Australia and California and two from Chile. The best, a minority for me, were cases in which high quality raw material combined with sensitive oak treatment.

It was no great surprise to learn after the event that three of my top wines were from Bordeaux, a fine 2012 Caillou Blanc from Château Talbot, an excellent 2012 Château Latour Martillac, Pessac-Léognan, and Jean-Christophe Mau’s own ultra-stylish 2012 Château Brown, Pessac-Léognan. I gave good marks to two Aussie sauvignons, a 2013 Terre a Terre Wrattonbully Sauvignon and a superb 2013 Larry Cherubino Pemberton Blanc. South Africa was mixed, with the best wine a 2011 Reyneke Reserve White.

From New Zealand, my favourites were the 2010 Astrolabe Taihoa, Kekerengu, 2011 Greywacke Wild Ferment, 2013 Yealands Winemaker’s Reserve and the biggest surprise, for sheer value, a thoroughly appetising 2013 Huia Sauvignon Blanc, Wairau, opulent citrus fruit moderated by an intense, zesty quality and textured finesse. Check out the full list with prices and stockists below.

Something for the Weekend

Night In

2013 Pazo do Mar Godello Alma de Blanco, Monterrei, Galicia.

The clean refreshingly appley aromas and attractively juicy, crisp apple and stonefruit quality of the godello grape bring a lively Granny Smith twang to this appetising and nicely-balanced Galician dry white from Monterrei. £8.50, Oddbins.

Dinner Party

2011 Lafou El Sender, Terra Alta, £11.49, Waitrose

A powerful Rhône-style blend of grenache with syrah and mourvèdre, the modern styling of this sumptuous Spanish red brings succulence of texture and lively refreshing bite to the wine’s dark berry and blackcurrant fruit qualities. £11.49, Waitrose.

Splash Out

2009 Dominio de Caïr, Ribera del Duero.

Beneath a veneer of vanilla, liquorice spice and blackcurrant, lurks a stylish red whose opulent cassis fruit is adorned by polished oak and supported by the Ribera’s classic savoury freshness. £22.95 - £23.99, Halifax Wine, Hennings, DBM Wines.

Something for The Weekend

LIST OF OAKED SAUVIGNON BLANCS WITH PRICES AND STOCKISTS

No. Wine Vintage Blend Oak Alc Price Stockist
1 Larry Cherubino Pemberton, Western Australia 2013 Sauvignon 100% new, 3 mths ageing 12.5 £25.99 Inverarity Morton, Drinkmonger

2 PHI Lusiata Park Vineyard, Yarra Valley 2008 Sauvignon Old cask fermentation 12 c.£20 No stockists yet (from De Bortoli Wines)

3 Terre a Terre, Wrattonbully 2013 Sauvignon 225l/demi-muids Vosges oak fermented + 6mths ageing 12 c.£25 Seeking distribution

4 Chimney Rock , Elevage Blanc Napa Valley 2010 47% Sauvignon Blanc
43% Sauvignon Gris Two thirds Fermented + aged for 6mths in Fr oak, 1/3 new, 1/3 old 14.5 £24.99 http://www.cellarviewines.com, Matthew Clark

5 Duckhorn Napa Valley 2012 83% Sauvignon
17% Semillon 15% barrel-fermented in new oak, 5mths sur lie 13.5 £28 www.winetreasury.com

6 Mondavi Fumé Blanc, Napa Valley 2008 87% Sauvignon
13% Semillon Barrel fermented 13.5 £16 Templar Wines, Matthew Clark

7 Calyptra Grand Reserve, Cachapoal Valley 2010 Sauvignon Fermented and aged for 18mths in 600l barrels 14.5 $28 Not available in UK

8 Valdivieso Wild Fermented Single Vineyard, Leyda 2012 Sauvignon Aged for 6mths in 500l French oak barrels 13 £13.95 Winedirect

9 Lis Neris, Picol, Friuli Isonzo 2012 Sauvignon Some of wine aged for 11mths in 500l Fr oak 14 £24 No stockists yet (from FMV)

10 Marco Felluga, Russiz Superiore Collio DOC 2013 Sauvignon 15% fermented in oak, aged on lees for 8mths 13.5 £22.50 Berkmann Wine Cellars

11 Caillou Blanc, Château Talbot
Bordeaux Blanc 2012 74% Sauvignon
26% Semillon 35% new oak barriques, 35% 1yr old, 30% 3rd fill for 8 mtgs 14 £178 IB (12) Fine & Rare

12 Château Brown, Pessac-Léognan 2012 64% Sauvignon
36% Semillon 8 mths in medium toast barriques, 50% new, 50% 2nd fill. 13.5 £25 Soho Wines. Ellis of Richmond, Tesco

13 Château Carbonnieux, Pessac-Léognan 2012 70% Sauvignon
30% Semillon 10mths barrel ageing 13.5 £189
IB (12) En Primeur Ltd

14 Château Latour Martillac, Pessac-Léognan 2012 70% Sauvignon
30% Semillon Ageing - 35% new for 15months 13 £235 IB (12) Cambridge Wine Merchants

15 Le G de Guiraud, Château Guiraud
Bordeaux Blanc 2012 70% Sauvignon
30% Semillon Fermentation and ageing in 1yr old oak barrels 14 £13.99-£16.80 Costco, Palmers Wine stores, Hedonism

16 Les Arums de Lagrange, Château Lagrange Bordeaux Blanc 2012 55% Sauvignon
40% Semillon
5% Muscadelle 80% new oak barriques, 8-10mths ageing 13 £129 IB (12) Fine & Rare

17 Didier Dagueneau Pur Sang, Pouilly-Fumé 2008 Sauvignon Fermented and aged in new oak 12.5 £62 In Vino Veritas

18 Joseph Mellot La Grande Chatelaine, Cuvée Prestige 2011 Sauvignon Fermented and aged in oak, 30% new. Aged for 20mths 12.5 £22.99 The Secret Cellar, Eagles Wine

19 Astrolabe Taihoa, Kekerengu Marlborough 2010 Sauvignon Cuvée juice fermented in old oak barrels. 14 £24.50 ex Vat On-trade (Gordon Ramsay)

20 Brancott Estate, Chosen Rows Marlborough 2010 Sauvignon Fr oak cuves and foudres were used for 50% of wine 14 £33 - £39.95 Lay & Wheeler
Edgmond Wines

21 Cloudy Bay Te Koko, Marlborough 2011 Sauvignon Fermented and aged in oak barrel, less than 10% new 13.5 £30-£35 Majestic, Ocado, Bordeaux Index

22 Greywacke Wild Ferment, Marlborough 2011 Sauvignon Fermented in barriques (most old) remained for 12mths 14 £24.99 Majestic, Corks Out, Harvey Nichols, Winedirect, S.H.Jones

23 Huia Sauvignon Blanc, Wairau Marlborough 2013 Sauvignon A portion was fermented in neutral French oak barrels. 14 £11.75-
£13.00 Winedirect, Quintessentially Wine

24 TerraVin Te Ahu, Marlborough 2011 Sauvignon 500l French oak puncheons for 16mths 13.5 £28 Caviste

25 Yealands Winemakers Reserve, Awatere, Marlborough 2013 Sauvignon 30% fermented and aged in French oak barrels, 5% new 13.5 £14.95 Great Western Wine

26 Chamonix Reserve White, Franschhoek 2012 60% Sauvignon
40% Semillon 11mths oak ageing, 50% new 14% £12.95 Stone, Vine & Sun

27 Jordan The Outlier, Stellenbosch 2012 Sauvignon 60% barrel fermented (60% new) Nevers, Alliers + 10% American. 13 £13.75 SAwinesonline, Emperor Wines, The Wine Reserve Ltd

28 Nitida Coronata Integration, Durbanville 2012 60% Sauvignon
40% Semillon Semillon barrel fermented, blend aged 8mths in 7th fill 300l barrels 13 £14.50 Stone, Vine & Sun

29 Quoin Rock The Nicobar, Simonsberg Stellenbosch 2012 Sauvignon Fermentation and 10mths ageing in French oak casks, 25% new 13 £13.80 Bacchanalia

30 Reyneke Reserve White, Stellenbosch 2011 Sauvignon Fermented and aged 15 mtgs, 300l barrels, 50% new 13 £22 New Generation Wines

31 Tokara Directors Reserve, Stellenbosch 2012 74% Sauvignon
26% Semillon 400l for SB, 225l for Sem, Fr oak, 30% new. 10mths in total 14 £25.75 Noel Young Wines, The Wright Wine Co. SH Jones, SAwinesonline BBR

32 Sevilen Fume Blanc 900, Denizli Turkey 2012 Sauvignon Fermented and aged for 10mths in barrel 13 £17.50 Try Wines