Is there any greater food-friendly white wine in the world that’s appreciated less than dry German riesling? The time-honoured prejudices are a rollcall of shame: the bland legacy of liebfraumilch, the non-rieslings of laski and olasz riesling, the complexities of German labelling, the battery acid wines of yesteryear and the archaic view of German riesling as granny’s favourite sweet wine. None fully explain why we’re not totally in love with the charms of a uniquely delicious dry white that runs the gamut of flavours from peach, mango and apple to lemon, lime and pineapple superimposed on the individual character of its location.

Explaining our long-held fixation with the sweet stuff, Ernie Loosen, producer of Dr.Loosen in the Mosel, says: ‘after the war people wanted sweet wines and so they were much easier to sell than dry; everyone jumped on the bandwagon, so we forgot the art of making dry wines’. Without abandoning their luscious sweet Prädikat wines, the return to mouthwatering dry styles, mainly rieslings, is a comparatively recent development.

In an effort to change perceptions, the VDP, the exclusive club of 202 of top estates from Germany’s 13 wine regions, has today grasped the location nettle. Two years ago, a four-tier pyramid was created on similar lines to Burgundy, linking quality to location in a four-tier pyramid. Grosse Lage is the grand cru vineyard apex and below that come the three levels of Erste Lage, Ortswein and Gutswein. According to Constantin Guntrum, ‘The bottom line is that Germany is moving away from classification by sugar level to classification by terroir’.

While 22.7% of Germany’s vineyard area is planted with riesling, the figure rises to 55% in the case of the VDP from its joint riesling vineyard holdings of 2,700 hectares. Showing the product of the 2013 vintage in top dry whites and reds, the VDP put on a tasting of 375 white and 127 red wines in Wiesbaden. Although the 2013 vintage was small and beset by problems of rain and late ripening, the resulting natural acidity was a bonus for the best made wines, ensuring freshness, delicacy and long life. As the Nahe’s Helmut Dönnhoff says, ‘It’s not outstanding, but it’s very good with high acidity that’s ripe but not green’.

VDP produced 1 million bottles of these grand cru wines, or Grosses Gewächs, last year. The fact that they command an average price of 29.3 euros per bottle shows that at least in their own country, the top German dry wines are appreciated. The worrying trend for German wine lovers however is that as the world wakes up, these prices will start to look reasonable. For my selection of top VDP white and red wines in 2013, with prices and stockists where applicable, please check out anthonyrosewine.com.

Something for the Weekend 11 October 2014

Night In

Berry Bros. & Rudd Reserve Red. IGP, Pays’ dOc.

BBR comes up trumps for a southern French blend whose sheer exuberant liquid cherry and mulberry juiciness, framed by a textured bite and freshness, keeps you coming back for more. £8.45, Berry Bros & Rudd (www.bbr.com).

Dinner Party

2012 Abbotts & Delaunay Limoux Chardonnay

Behind the subtle veneer of toasty oak on this Atlantic-influenced chardonnay from Abbotts & Delaunay in France’s south sits a stylish dry Burgundian-style white in which peachy fruit, toasted oak, refreshing acidity and nutty lees-derived characters intertwine. £17.99, www.averys.com.

Splash Out

2010 Château de Vaudieu, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

A classic, violet-scented southern Rhône blend whose opulently spicy blackberry and plum fruit richness is underpinned by muscular power and youthfully grainy-textured tannins. 26.04 - £33.99. The Drink Shop, Halifax Wine, Davis, Bell, McCraith, Loki Wine, Halifax Wine, Wine-Works.

A SELECTION OF TOP 2013 RIESLING AND 2012 SPÄTBURGUNDER from the VDP WITH PRICES AND STOCKISTS WHERE AVAILABLE.

2013 SILVANER

Eschendorf am Lumpen Silvaner. Horst Sauer, Franken.

Yellow gold, lovely fresh floral, cowslip-like, grapefruity aromas, zesty fresh grapefuity quality, very juicy and crisply dry and refreshing with a citrusy twist on the finish. 91.

Iphofen Kronsberg Silvaner, Hans Wirsching, Franken.

Pale lemon hue, fine, intense aromatics, ripe and concentrated yellow fruit and lemons, with a juicy, zesty-citrusy quality that's intense and refreshingly dry at the same time. 92. £13.80 Kabinett Trocken, £19.99, Spätlese Trocken. The Wine Barn

2013 RIESLING

Winningen Röttgen Mosel Heymann-Löwenstein.

Pale lemon, fine freshness, lively ripe apricot-dry fruit quality, delicate, ripe and concentrated at the same time, with an appetisingly juicy yet dry, faintly saline / mineral finish. 92 / 93. £90, 6 bottles, in bond, Howard Ripley.

Winningen Uhlen "Laubach" Heymann-Löwenstein, Mosel.

Pale lemon hue, fine complex fresh aromatics, refreshing prickle on the tongue, with peach and apricot undertones, a glossy concentration of textured, delicate mango and peach fruit underpinned by a delicate, poised acidity and mineral dry finish; intense and complex. 93 / 94

Kiedreich, Gräfenberg Rheingau Robert Weil.

Pale lemon in colour, attractively fresh and aromatic in peachy vein, finely balanced stonefruit flavours and juicy acidity with a mouthwateringly tangy dryness and fresh acidity that bodes well for the years to come. 91 / 92. £168, 6 bottles, Howard Ripley.

Oestrich, Lenchen, August Eser Rheingau.

Pale lemony green, fine intense nose with lively lime-citrusy freshness, spritz-fresh, lovely intense, concentrated, rich lime-like fruitiness with a juicy, glossy texture, and stylish balance of cleansing, mouthwateringly juicy acidity. 92 / 3.

Rüdesheim Berg Schlossberg August Kesseler Rheingau.

Pale lemony green, very attractive lemon and lime citrus aromas with some floral uplift, refreshing spritz on the tongue, rather lovely, juicy, delicate citrus fruit flavours with intensity and concentration and fine-tuned balancing acidity, with mineral dry, almost salty finish. 92

Rüdesheim Berg Schlossberg Balthasar Ress Rheingau.

Pale lemon, attractive nose, good ripe, juicy stonefruit flavours, refreshingly juicy sweet and sour acidity, liveky appley bite, clean dry finish. 90 / 91

Norheim, Dellchen, Dönnhoff, Nahe.

Pale limey green, super-elegant and fresh aromatics, fine-tuned, delicacy of texture within which there's a peachy ripe fruit quality with a tangy dry acidity finishing on a mineral, dry, almost salty fresh note, all finely balanced. 93. £43- 45, Theatre of Wine, Mill Hill. £174, 3 magnums in bond, Howard Ripley.

Niederhausen Herrmannshöhle Dönnhoff Nahe.

Pale limey green in colour, fine fresh nose, refreshing spritz, aromatic, intense concentrated lime and apple-ripe fruitiness with a sharp, incisive blade of crisply refreshing, steely acidity and a delicately salty mineral dry edge on the finish that keeps the mouth watered and watering. 93 / 94. £44 – 46, Haslemere Cellars, Theatre of Wine, Fortnum & Mason. £192, 3 magnums in bond, Howard Ripley.

Bockenau Stromberg Schäfer-Fröhlich Nahe.

Pale limey green, highly aromatic with characteristic smoky / slatey aromas, refreshing spritz, and lively fresh citrusy bite of lemon and lime fruit with some underlying appley crispness and a typical flourish of juicy fruit yet nicely dry, almost mineral finish. 92. £18.40, The Wine Barn.

Monzingen Frühlingsplätzchen Schäfer-Fröhlich Nahe.

Pale lemony green colour, good typical Schafer-Fröhlich nose of delicate smokiness combined with a stony quality and fresh limey twist, equally on the palate,a lively lemon and lime fruit quality that's immediately appealing thanks to a juicy texture and lively dry bite on the finish. 93 / 94. £56.50, The Wine Barn.

Westhofen Morstein Keller Rheinhessen.

Pale lime green hue, intense smoky- limey riesling aromas, spritz fresh prickle, powerfully concentrated ripe, lime citrus fruitiness wth sweet / stony fruit and mineral tension and fine smoky dry finish. This is an engaging dry white though still elemental with plenty of time ahead of it thanks to firm structure of saline, minerally acidity. 93

Westhofen Brunnenhäuschen "Abtserde" Keller Rheinhessen.

Pale lime green hue, fine scented riesling, lovely ripe and richly concentrated fruit quality, very intense and juicy, with terrific concentratuon and powerful intensity of flavour with taut, sinewy structure and salty dry minerality that bodes well for the next three to 10 years. 93.

Westhofen Brunnenhäuschen Wittmann Rheinhessen.

Pale limey green in colour, fine salty dry fruit quality, delicately stony, concentrated and refreshingly juicy, finishing bone dry, almost austere, with a saline mouthwatering quality and overal stylish balance. 92 / 93. £42.30, The Wine Barn

Laumersheim Kirschgarten Philipp Kuhn Rheinpfalz.

Pale limey green hue, fine expressive nose, refreshing spritz on the tongue, good concentration of nicely textured ripe stonefruits with a background twist of fresh and zesty citrusy acidity bringing a nicely dry, almost slightly salt aftertaste. 91 / 92

Forst Ungeheuer Geh. Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan Rheinpfalz.

Pale limey greeny yellow, hint of white chocolate, floral, lovely texured ripely concentrated stoenfruit flavours with a gentle twist of acidity on the mid-palate turning the fruit to clean and stylishly dry on the fnish. 93. £33.70, The Wine Barn.

Deideheim Hohenmorgen Geh. Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan Rheinpfalz.

Pale lemony green, frsh and zestily grapefruity nose, a very attractively delicate syle of grapegruit zesty fruit with delicacy of texture and dry, slightly saline, finish. 92. £33.70, The Wine Barn.

Forst, Ungeheuer Von Winning Rheinpfalz.

Pale lime greeny yellow, good purity of fruit with least evident oak influence so far from this producer, if there is any it's subtle, and rather fine, pure intense citrus fruits with steely lime-like blade of incisive acidity running through a lovely purity of fruit flavour. 92.

Birkweiler Kastanienbusch "Köppel" Dr. Wehrheim, Rheinpfalz.

Pale lemon, aromatically refreshing and with a delicate, bright and precise purity of riesling fruit quality, with a fine saline touch of dryness on the finish that makes it mouthwateringly crisp and refreshing. 92 / 93

Iphofen Julis-Echter-Berg Hans Wirsching Franken.

Pale lemony green, fine fresh nose, lovely concentration of riesling fruit with juicy ripe stonefruit flavours and mouthwateringly fresh, dry acidity in fine overall balance; delicious. 92. £30.40, The Wine Barn

2012 SPÄTBURGUNDER

2012 Neuenahr Schieferlay Spätburgunder Kreuzberg, Ahr.

Bright ruby, fine pinot noir perfumed, excellent bright and juciy mulberryish fruit freshness and balance with nicely integrated, delicately spicy oak. 91 / 92

2012 Walporzheim Kräuterberg Spätburgunder, Ahr, Meyer-Näkel.

Good rich ruby, fine 'burgundian' pinot nose, very polished red with lots of juicy fresh and intense mulberry fruit polished by a fine veneer of light vanilla oak with good finesse, texture and balance. 91 / 92

2012 Rech Herrenberg Spätburgunder. Jean Stodden, Ahr.

Good bright ruby hue, fine cherry and mulberry fragrance, lovely ripe sweet cherry and mulberry fruits with good concentration, and intensity, glossy textured fruit with fine flourish of textured ripe tannns on the finish. 92. £43-44, Four Walls Wine.

2012 Klingenberg Schlossberg Spätburgunder Rudolf Fürst, Franken.

Bright youthful ruby, perfumed raspberryish fruit, really attractive bright raspberry fruit quality, and juicy texture to it with freshness, silky tannins, slightly salty finish and very fine balance. 92/ 93. £35, Lay & Wheeler, Four Walls, Stamford Wine Company, Goedhuis.

2012 Bürgstadt Centgrafenberg Spätburgunder Rudolf Fürst, Franken.

Good youthful ruby, fine pinot fragrance, bright juicy cherry and raspberry fruit quality with a mulberryish nip of saline acidity and finely textured fruit quality. 92 / 3. £60.00 – 65.00, Berry Bros Rudd, Justerini and Brooks, Lay & Wheeler.

2012 Bürgstadt Hundsrück Spätburgunder Rudolf Fürst, Franken.

Good ruby hue, fine bright fresh red berry perfumed, silky textured ripe raspberry and cherry fruit in burgundian mould with fine fruit quality, texture and freshness. 93 / 4. £96, Berry Bros Rudd, Justerini and Brooks.

2012 Malterdingen Bienenberg Spätburgunder Bernhard Huber, Baden.

Bright ruby, sweetly ripe cherry and mulberry perfumed, beautifully chiselled fruit purity showing lots of juicy mulberry and cherry quality in bright, spicy framework of sub-threshhold oak with fine backbone of acidity. 93

2012 Malterdingen Bienenberg Wildenstein Spätburgunder Bernhard Huber, Baden.

Bright ruby, still elemental both on nose and palate, but brightly perfurmed with lively raspberry and mulberry bite and firm backbone of acidity and tannins, suggesting a good 5 - 10 years ageing potential. 92 / 93

2012 Bombach Sommerhalde Spätburgunder Bernhard Huber, Baden.

Bright ruby, powerful, intense fragrance of dark red berry / loganberry-like fruit, ripe and juicy mulberry and logaaberry fruit on the palate with seriously juicy fresh acidity and finely spun, silky texture, all the while with that firm backbone of acidity that promises much for the future. 93

2012 Achkarren Schlossberg Spätburgunder Dr Heger, Baden.

Bright ruby, pure red berry pinot noir perfumed, beautifully posied fresh raspberry and fraises des bois fruit quality, silky voluptuous texture, fine fresh acidity and juicy balancing tannins in an overall framework of well-crafted pinot fruitiness. 93

2012 Ihringen Winklerberg v. B., Spätburgunder Dr Heger, Baden.

Bright ruby, fine pinot noir berry fruits fragrance, seductive concentration of pure, mulberryish fruit with a firm backbone of fresh acidity, well-integrated oak and fine tannins suggesting excellent potential for ageing over at least 5 -10 years.