Pinot Noir is in the air, and, I’m pleased to say, in the glass. In the last few weeks, I’ve tasted German pinot noir against the rest of the world, fine red Burgundy at a pre-sale tasting by the American auction house, Acker Merrall & Condit, Australian pinot noir against New Zealand, and, most recently, an ‘emerging classics’ tasting of Chilean pinot noir. That’s quite a lot of pinot noir even if you love the thrill of great red Burgundy and its vinous acolytes, which fortunately I do.

The red grape of Burgundy has spread its wings to become the official darling of the red wine world. It’s ousting Bordeaux in the Far East as the new hot wine to stick in your cellar in place of over-hyped Bordeaux. In Australia, it’s producing seductive wines to rival New Zealand’s outstanding examples. It raises its pretty head in Oregon and California, where the two American regions came first (2009 Anticaterra Pinot Noir) and second (2008 Au Bon Climat Isabelle) in the ‘taste-off ‘with Germany.

The two most interesting results were the tastings from Germany and Chile. The former because, in a pre-selection of top German pinot by Tim Atkin MW and Hamish Anderson of the Tate, it was Deutschland über almost alles with seven spätburgunders, as the grape is known in Germany, taking seven of the 10 top places. Top was Rudolf Fürst’s 2009 Bürgstadter Centgräfenberg Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs from Franconia.

The second result was interesting too because in Chile pinot noir is still more emerging work-in-progress than classic. In a disappointing tasting, most Chilean pinots were just too clunky, being either over-alcoholic or over-oaked with too many, alas, over here.

There are few bargains in pinot noir, a high maintenance grape demanding the extra attention and care that only a dedicated grower can lavish on it. Occasionally someone gets it right and affordable, like the de Bortoli family, whose 2010 Windy Peak Pinot Noir, £7.99, down from £10.99, Majestic, punches above its weight for its spicy, cherry and strawberry fruit quality. Same goes for Villa Maria, one of the few capable of producing quality pinot in quantity, to wit its seductively red berry-fruited 2009 Cellar Selection, £13.49 - £14.99, Majestic, Sainsbury's.

Of all countries, I still think new Zealand delivers most on value per sip ratio, and you’ll find this in the delightful fragrance and textured raspberry and rhubarb fruit of the 2010 Blind River Pinot Noir, Marlborough, £18.99, buy 2 = £14.99, Majestic or the spicy, peppery, loganberryish richness of the 2009 Mount Koinga Pinot Noir, Central Otago, £17.50, The Wine Society. California is making strides, Au Bon Climat one of the greats with the voluptuously cherryish and spicy fruit qualities of the 2009 Au Bon Climat Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara, £19.99, buy 2 = £17.99, Majestic.

When red Burgundy is good, it’s unbeatable, from the lower slopes of the 2009 Chorey-lès-Beaune, £17.99, Marks & Spencer with its cherry-raspberry fragrance and savoury acidity and Domaine François Lumpp’s bright, smokily raspberryish 2008 Givry à Vigne Rouge, £23.75 Lea & Sandeman (www.leaandsandeman.co.uk); to the grandeur of Domaine Antonin Guyon’s 2009 Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru, £50, Marks & Spencer, all mulberry fruit concentration and bite beautifully defined by silky tannins and mineral finesse, or the gloriously perfumed, focused spicy cherry and mulberry-intense 2009 Domaine des Varoilles, La Romanée, Monopole, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru, £45.19, Corney & Barrow (www.corney-barrow.co.uk). Red Burgundy worth all the fuss.

Something for the Weekend

Something For the Weekend

Under £6

2010 Pasico Old Vine Monastrell Shiraz, Jumilla

There's a seductively floral, blackcurranty fragrance to this youthful southern Spanish blend from Jumilla, which is full of opulent black fruitiness with a spicy, savoury aftertaste and an attractive screwcap-induced freshness. Great party fare. £5.99, Sainsbury’s

Under a Tenner

2008 Château d'Anglès Classique Rouge

Spicily aromatic, this seductive Languedoc red from Eric Fabre at La Clape is fresh, richly fruity and finely balanced, an elegant, spicy blend of syrah, grenache and mourvèdre with delightful red fruits flavours. £9.99, down from £11.99, Wine Rack.

Splash Out

2010 Bourgogne Chardonnay Kimmeridgian

The crisp flinty aromas and steely green apple dry fruitiness suggest Chablis, as does the richly flavoured chalky chardonnay fruitiness and mouthwateringly dry finish. Stylish northern Burgundian dry white from the excellent Domaine Brocard. £10.49 / 6 bottle case, www.marksandspencer.com

Ends