I’m always on the horns of a dilemma, as it were, when Valentine’s Day comes round. Do you conform to type and mention the Champagne Bollinger Rosé Champagne that’s supposed to steam up your glasses and get you and your partner in the mood? Or does the cynic simply ignore one of the most rampantly, commercially exploitative days of the year? Anyway, what do people who are supposed to spend Valentine’s night staring into each other’s eyes do for the next 364 days? Answers on a postcard… The dilemma increases along with the pressure when Valentine’s Day happens to fall on a Saturday.

So I’m grateful for the suggestions flooding my inbox from the industry as to what you may or may not wish to serenade your lover with on this most, erm, romantic of days. Let’s start with ‘the double temptation of Rosso Nobile al Cioccolata’, apparently ‘a rich red wine laced with decadent chocolate flavours that guarantees (my italics) to add some extra romance to the special evening and ‘allows you to enjoy both of your vices without sacrifice’. Another picks up a similar theme: apparently, ‘Valentine’s Day is all about giving, receiving and enjoying chocolate.’ Laithwaites’ suggestion? Andrew McPherson’s The Full Fifteen Sparkling Red NV, since you ask.

Not convinced? How about this one then? You guessed it. 50 Shades of Grey White Silk is a blend of gewürztraminer and sauvignon blanc launched to coincide with the eponymous film and described by one commentator as containing ‘overpowering notes of literary shame followed by a deep and crushing sadness that you actually went into store and purchased this viticultural abomination’. Whether or not this would be improved by being served in The Diamond Glass, which is supposed to look like a diamond, the PR flatters us anyway: The Diamond Glass Set of Two is ‘great for lovers and perfect for classy types’ and designed to ‘awaken the full bodied flavours’.

If not for you then, there is no shortage of specially designed bottles and gift packs from the likes of Freixenet’s Elyssia, Moët & Chandon Impérial Rosé NV and Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Rosé Champagne. I declined the temptation to try them. Actually, anyone who really loved me would make the ultimate sacrifice and just go out and buy me the best rosé champagne on the market: the fabulous, dare I suggest, seductive, 2006 Amour de Deutz Rosé, a plush, raspberry mousse-filled mouthful of bliss and worthy successor to Deutz’s prestige Cuvée William Deutz Brut Rosé. Did I mention the price? Around £149, Christopher Piper, Hedonism Wine, Justerini & Brooks, Soho Wine Supply, Vagabond Wines, Huntsworth Wine. If she’s not worth it, not to worry, try it on mum. Mother’s Day, March 15, is only just round the corner.

My Valentine Wine

Night In

2013 Yalumba Y Series Viognier

Within a framework of relatively moderate alcohol, this dry floral white expresses the apricoty flavours of the Rhône variety well, with a refreshing balance that adds an appealing dry feel to the finish. £7.49, down from £9.99 until tomorrow, Morrisons.

Dinner Party

2012 Chablis La Collégiale, Laroche

This lively chardonnay from Laroche has a classic Chablis nose of delicately smoky crème fraîche and stonefruit following on with a mouthwateringly peachy fruit quality that ends up with a grapefruit-citrusy punch and typically steely blade of freshness. £14.99, Majestic.

Splash Out

2005 Viña Ardanza, Rioja Reserva, La Rioja Alta

Sweet oak vanilla and a whiff of autumn bonfire smoke combine with sumptuous cherry and strawberry flavours in a savoury, elegant finish. £17.49 - £24.95, North & South Wines, Wine Society, Divine Fine Wines, Armit, Berry Bros.

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