No blame should be attached to The Sunday Times’ Atticus for banging a drum back in 1974 that turned out to be so empty, nor Georges Duboeuf for milking the cash cow for all, no, more than, it was worth. Doubtless, there were juicily nubile fresh wines that slaked the thirst of the French as they tucked into their saucisson à la Lyonnaise. By the time it reached our shores though, filtered to within a micrometre of its life, Beaujolais Nouveau was mostly little better than water. Thankfully, it’s now water under the bridge.

Fleurie

To say that a trip to the Beaujolais region this summer was a revelation may sound like hyperbole but is in truth no exaggeration. My previous association with Beaujolais was lost in the autumn mists of time; fortunately. When it was my job to receive samples of Beaujolais Nouveau every third Thursday in November, taste them and write them up, the best part was the spitting out and the consoling trip to the pub afterwards.

The region’s gamay grape has long had to labour in the shadows of its more prestigious neighbour, Burgundy’s pinot noir. The chip has been slipping off the shoulder for some time now though thanks to a combination of factors: old vine trellising, high density, low yields, improved vineyard management and winemaking, longer ageing in bottle, a good hand dealt by Mother Nature, and the energy of youth, many with experience garnered from stints at wineries in the New World. ‘I was experimenting with syrah and pinot noir but my son came back from overseas and said, wait, let's hang on to our gamay’, says Claude Geoffray at Château Thivin. ‘It may not be the best known or sexiest variety but it’s our variety, and it has drinkability and freshness’.

Lucien Lardy

‘We’ve had to make sure we don’t stay in our comfort zone and get out and about’, says Lucien Lardy, in Fleurie. Dominique Piron did just that. On a visit by Xi Jinping to Lyon last year, he had been told that his Morgon was to be served to the President of China, along with a Beaufort cheese and Valrhôna chocolate. Since they wanted ‘folklore’, he was handed an orange apron to wear. ‘Will the President of China be happy with the colour of the Tibetan monks?’ inquired Dominique (presumably out of earshot of the President)? Several export containerloads later, Monsieur Piron says that ‘Beaujolais is back because it’s uncomplicated, not expensive, and goes with so many cuisines’.

If the old ivy-clad stone houses of the family domaines look deceptively timeless, a resurgence of pride is visible in the neat and tidy little villages with their flower boxes, tidy courtyards and welcoming cellar door receptions, complete with proudly framed certificates, upturned barrels-cum-tasting tables, collections of vineyard stones and old bottles long since emptied by thirsty ancestors. Today’s growers, especially those in the 10 superior northern appellations, are justifiably proud of the aromatic fresh wines whose appetising berry fruitiness, often with notes of pepper and spice, speaks of their varied climate and soils.

In the region’s semi-carbonic maceration process, whole bunches of gamay grapes undergo a fermentation within the grape itself over about a week in a sealed tank. This degrades the gamay’s naturally rustic tannins and curbs excessively tart acidity, creating the special softness of texture and cherryish juiciness of good Beaujolais. ‘It’s a grape that gives finesse, freshness and concentration when the grapes are old enough’, says Cédric Chignard, ‘The wines never pall’. Trellising the old bush vines is another aspect of viticulture that’s resulting in improvements to the wines. At Château Moulin-à-Vent it’s done for instance to expose the grapes and leaves for better photosynthesis, bringing greater vigour, an increase in the ripening potential and less disease.

Chez Les Desvignes

Climate change is an influence with warmer summers contributing to improved ripening. ‘Parts of Fleurie are benefiting interesting from climate change gradually over the last decade when previously they were a bit too cool’, says Cédric Chignard. Good vintages in recent years have helped too. Years like 2009, 2011 and 2014 have been early ripening. 2009 is typically rich and opulent, 2011 concentrated and complex and 2014 looks to be full-bodied and food-friendly. These are ‘modern’ vintages. The later-ripening 2010s and 2013s, which are fine, fresh and structured are more classical. 2012, which was compromised by rain, was not much to write home about.

The 10 crus, covering 6,000 hectares, are: Régnié-Durette, Fleurie, Morgon, Chiroubles, St Amour, Chénas, Juliénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Brouilly, Côte de Brouilly. At 42 per cent, the crus account for the biggest slice of all Beaujolais sales in the UK (Beaujolais Nouveau is only 11per cent). And the UK is the biggest export market for the Beaujolais crus with 38 per cent. Located in the north of the region in pretty, undulating hilly country composed predominantly of granite and schist soils, each of the 10 crus has its own identity, not least thanks to the individual growers and their own collective identity within each appellation. According to Edouard and Morgan Parinet, ‘We think the most efficient way forward is for each cru to take the lead and progressively associate the name with Beaujolais to make the name once more pleasant to the ears of the customer’.

Among many outsiders joining the party are Thibault Liger-Belair, Frédéric Lafarge, Louis Boillot and Edouard Labruyère, as well as Burgundy négociants Louis Jadot, Louis Latour, Henriot, Albert Bichot and Joseph Drouhin. Thibault Liger-Belair has been buying vines in the region since 2009. While tasting an old Fleurie, Thibault had a moment of revelation and realised how great the terroir could be. ‘Gamay can be closer to syrah than pinot noir; it’s a noble variety if you plant it in acid and granite soils. I don’t want to copy Burgundy here, but try to achieve the typicity of Moulin-à-Vent’. From his property, you can see Moulin-à-Vent’s pretty windmill, once a sorry sight with solitary shaft poking out, now, beautifully restored, a fitting symbol of the region’s revival.

Thibault Liger-Belair in his Moulin-à-Vent vineyard

Beaujolais Recommendations - A selection of 50+ Beaujolais. For stockists and prices, check out http://www.wine-searcher.com. Not all wines available UK retail yet, buy may become so in the future.

2014 Henry Fessy Coteaux Bourguignons, Red Burgundy Wine.
The old Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire, cherryish colour, primary cherry fruit aromas, typically refreshing gamay, promisingly juicy, pleasantly light, cherryish and fruity, unoaked, crisp and juicy with bright raspberryish bite on the finish.
87
£9, Marks & Spencer.

2013 Henry Fessy, Brouilly.
Pleasant fresh cherryish nose, a hint of smokiness, bright red berry fruit, cherry and cranberry bite, bright with typical balance of succulently rounded berry fruit juiciness, a backbone of lightly chewy tannin and nice freshness on the finish. 87
£9.99, down from £11.99, until 3 November, Waitrose

2013 Chénas Les Boccards, Paul Henri Thillardon.
Seriously good young Beaujolais from organic grapes, with a whiff of almost syrah-like pepper and spice and satisfying depth of richly textured dark cherry in a tight framework of dry, tongue-gripping tannins and mouthwateringly fresh acidity.
91
£18.75, Christopher Piper Wines.

2010 Château du Moulin-à-Vent.
From a fresh vintage with good acidity, this is deep hued, with lightly smoky /spicy aromas from a subtle touch of oak, sleek sweet and sour dark cherry fruit and a glossy, spicy oak veneer and tannin structure, with fresh acidity.
88+
£19.99, Corks 0f Cotham

2012 Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Croix des Vérillats.
From a single vineyard on the way to Chénas, this is deep hued, dark berry, a rich and spicy expression of the gamay in its terroir, with nice ripe plum, juniper, and dark berry fruits, purity, weight, succulence of texture and juicy fresh balancing acidity.
89
Stockists n/a

2010 Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Croix des Vérillats.
Deep-hued dark cherry colour, intriguingly expressive, dark loganberry-like fragrance, ripe, rich and concentrated fruit with lovely definition thanks to its spice, concentration of dark berry fruits and fine blade of acidity running through the fruit; still very fresh though evolving nicely as the tannins soften.
91
Stannary Street Wine stock the 2011

2010 Château du Moulin-à-Vent., Champ de Cour.
Very dark colour, fine spicy rich dark berry fruits fragrance, richly concentrated gamay fruit that’s deep, full-bodied and loganberry like with an attractive spicy edge to it, lovely purity, fine tannin structure and good juicy freshness behind firm structure. Hugely drinkable.
91
£27.95, Berry Bros & Rudd

Impénitents

2011 Louis-Claude Desvignes Morgon Côte du Py.
Deeply coloured, there’s some sweet dark fruit in the aroma, and the palate is concentrated and vinous with a liquid black cherry and blackberry richness and youthful vigour, whose robust tannins and gentle spine of astringency will soften nicely drunk with char grilled meats. Another two to three years in bottle wouldn’t hurt .
91
£17.25, Berry Bros & Rudd.

2013 Louis-Claude Desvignes Morgon, La Voute Saint Vincent.
Pleasant fresh lightly spicy cherry nose, hint of strawberry nice juicy succulent mid-plate sweet and sour cherryish fruit, with lightly textured ripe, gently chewy tannins and juicy fresh finish, good overall balance.
88
£13.95, Berry Bros & Rudd

2013 Louis-Claude Desvignes, Morgon, Les Impenitents.
Deep colour, a light touch of pepper and spice, hint of northern Rhône syrah, almost, very nicely succulent juicy red cherry and fraise du bois succulence suffused with a light herb and pepperiness, firm structure and yet very drinkable, with a real personality and character.
90+
£18.95, Berry Bros & Rudd

2013 Louis-Claude Desvignes, Morgon, Javernières.
Deep colour, good, intense fraise du bois fragrance, touch of spice, attractive classic style with succulently juicy fraise du bois fruitiness, gentle tannins, textured succulence, nicely balanced savoury finish, not a million miles from pinot noir, good structure for ageing.
90+
£19.50, Berry Bros. & Rudd

Jen-Marc Burgaud in the Côte du Py

2014 Jean-Marc Burgaud Beaujolais-Villages, Les Vignes de Thulon
From 55 year old vines, this has a good spicy fresh fragrance, attractive soft and juicy bright cherryish fruit with a light touch of spiciness and zingy fresh acidity on the finish, showing finesse and suppleness of texture and overall fine balance and purity. Very gamay.
89
£109.50 / 12, Chistopher Keiller

2013 Jean-Marc Burgaud, Morgon Grands Cras
Typical fresh cherryish aromas, concentrated cherry fruit, good purity and finesse, with firm muscular tannins and savoury acidity, almost chewy at this stage, indicating a vin de garde.
89
£11.95, The Wine Society

2013 Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon Côte du Py
Ripe fresh dark cherry fruit aromas, zingy fresh ripe mulberry juiciness, good concentration and richness, toned muscle, tempered by zingy acidity and fine tannins. Rich, but rounded with good classically tangy finish and structure for ageing.
90
£16.50, Berry Bros. & Rudd

2013 Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon Côte du Py Javernières.
Classic gamay nose, subtle spicy oak veneer over rich cherryish fruit, with touches of vanilla and spice; really attractive red berry fruits concentration and flavour with spicy oak veneer and juicy acidity, spiced with a delicate touch of vanilla oak.
91
Stockist n/a

2013 Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon Côte du Py James
Bright nose and fruit, light oak spiciness on the nose, dark berry fruits tempered by zingy fresh acidity and good light touch of oak spiciness, very much a food wine, with very nice lively freshness and mineral dry finish, complexity without overoaking. James as in James Bond. 90
Stockist n/a

2014 Daniel Bouland Vieilles Vignes.
Rich, intense and spicy dark berry fruits fragrance, very good concentration and richness of loganberry-like and dark cherry fruitiness, fine purity of flavour, silky tannins with real elegance and finesse but also a certain muscularity and minerality.
91
Stockist n/a

2011 Daniel Bouland Morgon Corcelette
Very deep dark ruby hue, intense fresh, vanilla, dark sweet cherry, subtle fragrance, wow, very rich concentrated dark berry frits, lovely purity of ripe loganberry and dark cherry richness, silky as tannins, with fine succulent acidity and mineral dry finish. Very good.
92
Stockist n/a

Daniel Bouland

2013 Lucien Lardy Moulin-à-Vent Les Thorins
Good ruby colour, pleasant cherry aromatics, nice soft and supple, juicy palate of cherryish fruit with light spicy touches, easy to drink red fruits tempered by nice freshness and balanced tannins and fresh astringency.
88
£8.72, Daniel Lambert Wholesale.

2013 Lucien Lardy Fleurie Les Roches.
Pleasant fresh liquorice and dark cherry aromas, soft supple dark cherry fruit, sweet middle with easy supple tannins, zingy streak of juicy berry fruit freshness and lively bite on the finish and a twist of fresh astringency.
88
£10.90 - £12.56, The Imperial Wine Company, Genesis Wines

2013 Lucien Lardy, Fleurie Les Moriers, Vieilles Vignes
Deep colour, fresh dark berry nose, concentrated ripe dark cherry fruit with firm muscular grip of tannins yet succulently juicy and balanced lively freshness on finish. Still youthful, needs a couple of years and should drink well for five to seven. Vin de Garde.
90
£12.35, The Imperial Wine Company

2011 Lucien Lardy Fleurie Les Roches
Attractively aromatic, nice ripe blackberry and raisin fruitiness, good spicy mid-palate richness, with quite firm, sinewy tannins behind the fruit and a nice twist of astringent freshness; distinctive character.
88
£10.90, The Imperial Wine Company

2013 Lucien Lardy Moulin-à-Vent, Les Michelons
Good fresh aromatics, attractive red fruits concentration, good structure, nice juicy red cherry fruit with more muscular tannic grip, and crisp, zingy fresh acidity.
89
£17.30, L’Art du Vin

2013 Fleurie Les Moriers, Domaine Chignard
Attractively fresh floral, spicy aromas with sweet cherry, nice ripe red sour cherry and plum on the palate, good concentration with savoury mid-palate juiciness tempered by fine tannins and freshness with appetising dry minerality on the finish, nice balance.
90
£17.95, Philglas & Swiggot

Chez Piron

2013 Domaines Piron Morgon Côte du Py
Good fresh dark berry fruit nose, quite muscular attack of tannins and tangy streak of acidity zinging through concentrated ripe cherries and juicy succulent texture, with mineral dry finish.
89
£18.95 Whalley Wine, Yorkshire Vintners

2014 Domaines Piron Brouilly, Dominique Piron.
Attractively fresh floral and cherryish nose, light and juicy refreshingly clean raspberry fruit, approachably juicy and gluggable with good balance and nip on the finish.
88
RRP £15.50. Contact Domaine Direct at mail@domainedirect.co.uk.

2014 Domaines Piron Morgon La Chanaise
Good fresh fragrance, dark cherry, fruit lightly infused with a pepperiness and very fresh with a tart streak of acidity on the finish, firm muscular grip on the finish, needs a good year in two in bottle to unfurl.
89
RRP £15.95. Contact Domaine Direct at mail@domainedirect.co.uk.

2011 Domaine Chignard, Fleurie Les Moriers
Good deep ruby hue, intense red fruits fragrance, good concentration of red fruits, cherry and raspberry, seductive mid-palate richness and flavour, nicely proportioned fruit quality and clarity, with lively streak of freshness, mineral salts and sinewy tannins that could do with a year or two in bottle to really soften down and drink beautifully.
91
£153 / case, Christpher Keiller

2010 Domaine Chignard, Fleurie Les Moriers
Good fresh spicy red cherry fruits aromas, vibrant, attractively sweet and spicy red cherry fruitiness, fine streak of fresh, firm acidity running through the fruit which has fine, rounded, maturing tannins and a fresh cranberry bite on the finish which is balanced and well-crafted and fine, and will mature well for another five years.
90
£15.75, Wines @ West End

2014 Raisins Gaulois, Domaine Marcel Lapierre , Vin de France.
Primary fresh raspberryish aromas, light, refreshing raspberryish fruit easy-drinking quintessence of gamay expression with and juicy fresh raspberry fruit, and lively bite.
88
£11.99, The Solent Cellar (and other independents)

2014 Morgon, Domaine Marcel Lapierre
Pale, fresh cherryish, lightly spicy and sweetly cherryish and raspberryish, refreshingly juicy succulence and easy tannins, very rounded, especially for a Morgon, with good lively tangy freshness on the finish.
90
£19, Roberson (and other independents)

2011 Morgon N.
A pungent dark cherry nose, good muscular ripe dark cherry and loganberry fruit, quite robust and sinewy in texture with refreshingly zingy acidity and overall fine balance. Lots of character and personality, really healthy and beautifully balanced red.
91
Stockist n/a

2011 Morgon. Cuvée MMXI
Fine fresh nose with lots of vibrancy and energy, lovely sweetly ripe berry and cherry fruitiness with seductively juicy glossy textured quality, zingy fresh streak of acidity that underlines and complements the sweet opulent red berry fruit quality, finishing with length and backbone. Lovely fruit.
92
Stockist n/a

Camille and Matheiu Lapierre

2013 Moulin-à-Vent, Coeur de Terroirs Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Labruyère
Vivid colour, attractive fresh strawberry fruit with good underlying spiciness, nice full ripe red fruits quality, good structure of tannins and underlying freshness, juicy texture, sweetly fruity and rich with structure for ageing.
90
£19.95, Corney & Barrow

2013 Moulin-à-Vent Le Carquelin, Sélection Parcellaire
Vibrant aromatics, good ripe rich spicy dark cherry fruits with light touch of toasty oak, concentrated dark berry fruits very much in the burgundian mould with light toasty oak underpinning to the sweetly ripe black fruits flavours , nicely supple tannins and seductively juicy acidity.
90
Stockists n/a

2012 Moulin-à-Vent, Grande Cuvée., Domaine Labruyère
A blend of parcels, this shows pleasant berry fruit fragrance with a touch of carrot, pleasantly juicy gamay with some sweet berry fruit on the palate, nice strawberryish fruit quality with quite firm, grippy tannins and fresh acidity.
88
£14.90, Your Sommelier

2011 Moulin-à-Vent Champ de Cour, Domaine Labruyère
Deep rich ruby, teetering on the edge of overripe blackberry jam fruit with sweet, almost amarone-style flavours, lots of tannins and acidity and at least a degree of freshness behind the big spicy / toasty oak. Châteauneuf of Beaujolais?
88
£18, Your Sommelier

2013 Paul Janin Les Vignes du Tremblay, Moulin-à-Vent, Domaine Janin.
Vivid colour, dark red fruits nose, nice ripe richness of red berry and cherry on the palate, quite traditional in style with sinewy tannins kicking in after the initial fruit hit and the supporting spine of fresh juicy acidity, all nicely balanced by a salty touch of minerality on the finish, making it an excellent food wine.
90
RRP £14.30, Domaine Direct at mail@domainedirect.co.uk; Christopher Piper Wines

Janin

2013 Paul Janin Clos du Tremblay, Moulin-à-Vent, Domaine Janin.
Good depth of red fruits on the nose, equally dark red berry fruitiness on the palate, nicely rich and concentrated fruit with a certain robustness of tannin and steely spine of acidity running through the fruit and bringing a nicely balanced freshness, almost burgundian, but more robust / rustic.
91
RRP £18.42, Domaine Direct at mail@domainedirect.co.uk; Christopher Piper Wines

2013 Domaine des Marrans Beaujolais-Villages
Aromatic raspberryish, almost pinot-like fragrance, good juicy raspberry and cherry fruit quality, with nice freshness and gently textured, juicily supple tannins in a refreshing framework of fruit overall.
88
Stockists n/a

2013 Domaine des Marrans Chiroubles
Good colour, nice raspberry and cherry fruit fragrance, fine quality of raspberry and cherry fruit with fine textured tannins and juicy succulence, balancing texture and fruit, with a whiff of pepper, dissolving appetisingly on the tongue, quite Burgundian.
90
Stockists n/a

2013 Domaine des Marrans Morgon, Corcelette
Fine fresh fragrant red berry and cherry aromas, attractively ripe dark red cherry and mulberry fruit with fresh nip of acidity and firmer musculature than on the pure and textured Fleurie, all nicely dissolving with appetising freshness of fruit; very drinkable Beaujolais with almost pinot-like deliciousness.
91
Stockists n/a

At Domaine des Marrans

2013 Thibault Liger-Belair Moulin-à-Vent Vieilles Vignes
Fresh, intense ripe sweet cherry fruit fragrance, modern style, attractive fresh and juicy cherry fruit quality, still showing quite sinewy tannins, moderated by a good spine of freshness and attractive purity of red fruits flavours, still quite youthfully tight.
89+
£98 / case of 6, Farthinghoe Wines.

2013 Thibault Liger-Belair Moulin-à-Vent La Roche
Fresh red fruits nose, a hint of toasty oak, good bright vivid cherry and raspberry fruits, modern style, attractively zingy fresh juicy red fruits richness, firm, sinewy tannins, focused, quite dry and tight on the finish with sturdy, muscular chewy tannins.
89+
£140 / case of 6, Farthinghoe Wines.

2012 Thibault Liger-Belair Moulin-à-Vent Les Rouchaux
Aromatic red berry and cherry, almost pinot like, attractively juicy fresh raspberry and red cherry fruit, nice texture and concentration, quite sinewy tannins, but starting to evolve and showing a zingy fresh fruity quality on the finish. 89
£23, Berry Bros & Rudd.

2012 Thibault Liger-Belair Moulin-à-Vent Vieilles Vignes
Nicely evolving yet fresh raspberry and cherry nose, refreshing raspberry fruit quality, juicy and succulently textured, good fleshy concentration of mulberry fruit, with lively fresh bite and sinewy tannins just starting to soften.
90
£23, Berry Bros & Rudd.

2104 Clos de Rochebonne, Château Thivin, Beaujolais Blanc
Barrel-fermented with 10% new oak, a subtle touch of toasty oak on the nose, well-crafted, ripe juicy pineapple and peachy fruit , creamy texture, with refreshingly zingy, pineapple-citrusy acidity.
89
£18.42, Christopher Piper Wines

2013 Château Thivin, Les Sept Vignes , Côte de Brouilly.
A blend of seven parcels. showing spicy, mineral, fresh, intense aromas and a glossy textured ripe, rich dark cherry fruit quality, nice purity, juicy, and yet firmly structured by fine-grained tannins and mineral dry, damsony freshness.
90
£16.99 - £17.50, Berry Bros. & Rudd, Secret Cellar & Selfridges.

2013 Château Thivin, Cuvee Godefroy. , Côte de Brouilly
Good purity and intensity of black fruits fragrance, strong primary fruit character, good concentration and richness of succulent fine black fruits with supple tannins, albeit sinewy and present, lightly chewy, and streaked with a fine blade of incisive acidity.
90
£22, Berry Bros & Rudd

Claude Geoffray, Château Thivin

2014 Domaine de Rochemure Beaujolais Villages
Vivid classic gamay with cherry and raspberry nose, bright and juicy dark cherry fruit , vibrant primary youthful fruit with light twist of astringency and supple tannins, needing a little time. Very fresh.
88
RRP £11.99 – £13.50 Lockett Brothers, Bottle Apostle, Butlers, Secret Cellar

2013 Domaine de Rochemure Moulin-à-Vent.
Good sweet fresh cherryish nose, light spicy oak, good rounded fresh cherryish fruit and sweetly ripe richness on mid-palate, well-crafted, lively youthful streak of fresh acidity; still youthful primary musculature but should settle nicely in 6 – 9 months.
90
Stockists n/a

Disclosure: I was hosted for this trip by the Beaujolais producers’ association.

Stockist list update 11 November 2015

Something For The Weekend 10 October 2015

Night In

2013 Les Jamelles Viognier, IGP Pays d’Oc

From the Languedoc-Roussillon in the South of France, this unoaked viognier, the grape of the Northern Rhône’s prestigious Condrieu, is floral-scented with honeysuckle notes and ripe and peachy with freshness, juicy texture and clean, dry finish. £6.99, The Co-operative.

Dinner Party

2013 Casillero del Diablo Maipo Reserva Privada

Impressive Chilean red with light, toasty smoky oak veneer and a touch of Maipo mintiness while the succulence of opulent cassis fruit is framed by lavish oak and its youthful spine of freshness. £8, down from £9.98, Asda.

Splash Out

2014 Coney Pizzicato Pinot Noir, Martinborough

From the musically inclined Tim and Margaret Coney in New Zealand’s ‘little Burgundy’ of Martinborough, this is fragrant pinot noir with seductive raspberry and loganberry fruitiness framed by subtle oak and maritime freshness. £19.99, buy 2 = £14.99, Majestic.