Odious as comparisons may be, when two of the wine world’s giants go head to head with their major annual wine showcases on consecutive March days, it’s inevitable that both will be examined in the witness box of wine. With a catalogue of 105 pages France looked a weighty proposition, but it paled into insignificance next to Spain’s David Haye-like 206. Quantity schmantity, but French amour-propre had just been dealt a double blow by news that South Africa had pushed its supermarket wine sales into fifth place and exports had plunged by almost a fifth last year.

Add to that the report that France’s first TV wine channel is under threat from its tough anti-alcohol laws and it’s not surprising that the atmosphere at the French tasting was subdued. My impression was of too many wines seemingly desperate to catch the eye of supermarket buyers on the lookout for cheap deals. There were exceptions though, with good value in whites like Les Montgolfiers Sauvignon Blanc Gros Manseng 2009, £6.99, Tesco, a pithy grapefuity zesty dry white, and the refreshingly zingy, apple-crisp 2009 Muscadet sur lie, Château de la Jousselinière, £6, Morrisons, Asda, and the Perrins’ 2009 La Vieille Ferme, Côtes du Rhône, £5.99 - £6.99, Majestic, Waitrose, Booths.

It remains to be seen if a new official structure for French wine will succeed in helping it build competitive brands. The latest correction suggests that France’s great hope for the future lies not in trying to compete with the New World but in its undoubted range of quality wines. Such favourites on the day were the distinctive 2007 Aviet Bacchus Trousseau from Lucien Aviet, Caves de Pyrène (01483 554750), a wonderfully traditional red from the Jura, whose delicacy of cherry fruit belied its concentration and character and the deftly oaked, black cherryish 2008 Château Paul Mas Clos des Mures, around £12.99, Hop Inn, Reading (0118 966 7265), Topsham Wines, Exeter(01392 874 501).

There was a contrasting buzz at the Spanish event where the Spanish giant seemed intent on breaking the shackles of tradition. New wave whites from Galicia, Rueda, Basque country and Catalonia looked increasingly convincing. There was a distinctively intense, peachy 2008 Coto de Gomariz Treixadura, around £14.99, The Sampler (020 7226 9500), The Vineking (01737 248 833) and a superb 2008 Albariño do Ferreiro, from Gerardo Méndez, £17.99, Moreno Wines (020 8960 7161). There was innovation in the fragrantly Muscat-rich 2009 Botani, £15.99 - £16.99, Handford (020 7589 6113), Halifax Wine Co., and the 2008 Navazos Niepoort, around £19, Theatre of Wine (020 8858 6363), Gauntleys of Nottingham (0115 911 0555), The Sampler, a salty dry white fermented in sherry casks with tangy, fino-like character at only 12.5% alcohol.

Continuing in this vein was a delightfully dry, dark-hearted sparkling garnacha, La Pamelita, £15.50, Harvey Nichols, made by Scotswoman Pam Geddes, and a surprising Malaga pinot noir, the 2008 Cortijo los Aguilares, £17.27, Georges Barbier (020 8852 5801). There was an unusual 2008 rioja made from the native maturana grape, a rich and vibrant tempranillo-based 2005 César Principe from Cigales, £19.39, Georges Barbier, and a host of interesting reds from up-and-coming Bierzo including the delicate berry-fruity ‘gamay-meets-pinot’ 2008 Ultreia Saint Jacques Tinto made from the mencía grape by Raúl Peréz, £11.99, Handford, The Sampler, Bottle Apostle (020 8985 1549), Great Northern Wine (01765 606 767). In the battle of the giants, this round went to a confident new Spain.

Something For the Weekend 3 April 2010

At a Fiver

2008 Yalumba Y Series Shiraz Viognier

Vivid and succulently juicy with tobaccoey spiciness and plum and prune flavours, this fine Australian Côte Rôtie-style blend from Yalumba made by the aptly-named Andrew La Nauze is irresistibly priced. £5, down from £7.65, until Tuesday, Tesco.

Under a Tenner

2008 Bourgogne Chardonnay, Domaine Jomain

Beautifully crafted and full-flavoured, with just a subtle touch of oak, the quality of this white burgundy hints at a pedigree closer to puligny than mere chardonnay. Worth a stash for summer. £10.99, buy 2 = £8.99, until Tuesday, Majestic.

Splash Out

2007 Château de Vaudieu, Closerie de Vaudieu, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Richly concentrated in blackberry fruits spiced with pepper and liquorice, the Bréchet family’s youthful blend of grenache plus the usual southern Rhône suspects will cellar nicely. Around £18.99, Cooden Cellars (01323 649 663), Slurp.Co.Uk, The Bristol Wine Company,(0117 373 0288), Noble Green Wines ) 020 8979 1113), The Fine Wine Company (0131 665 0088).