As you browse the supermarket aisles in search of a bottle for dinner tonight, spare a thought for the view from the sharp end. That Jacobs Creek or Echo Falls won’t have been assiduously sought out by the supermarket buyer digging for vinous gold in some riverbed or mountain vineyard in the back of the Australian or Californian beyond. As likely as not, it’s been selected by the wine team in the Berkshire, Bradford or Bracknell tasting room based on a simple equation: the bottom line.

A survey this month by Harpers Wine & Spirit gives a bird’s eye view of what the suppliers think of their major retailer customers. Tesco comes ‘top’ as worst retailer to work with by more than 200 wine and spirits suppliers, closely followed by Majestic, then Sainsbury’s. Tesco is also the most demanding when it comes to asking for additional fees or payments. Hats off to Marks & Spencer for being the fairest to work with.

According to Richard Siddle, the editor, ‘. It is time our major grocery retailers put in place changes that treat their suppliers openly and fairly and get back to the kind of retail offer we were once so proud of. If they don’t then it won’t just be their customers that vote with their feet and turn to the discounters, specialists and independent retailers that are now doing so well, but their fed-up suppliers’.

The relationship between supermarket and its supplier is a behind the scenes one of course and your choice of wine is more likely to be based on perceived value than any supermarket beauty contest. Most suppliers have their hands tied. As Gavin Quinney, the British owner of Château Bauduc tweeted: ‘If you make wine, hard to imagine you get into bed with UK supermarkets for the fun of it’.

Convenience aside, new quality-minded internet mail order companies with ranges based on quality such as 31 DOVER are making an impact. Its 2010 Mas d’Amile Vieux Carignan, Vin de France, £8.99, is a typically robust, deliciously brambly red made from the workhorse southern French grape variety with an attractive plummy fruit weight and vivid damson-fresh acidity, while the 2004 Señor de Olartia Rioja Reserva, £10.29, is a sprightly tempranillo-based 10-year-old rich in vanilla and toasty oak with attractively savoury mulberryish fruit flavours.

The 2012 Chablis Bric et Broques Damian et Roman Brocard, displays typically fresh, smoky aromas with peachy fruit supported by a lively bone dry bite. There are good deals too. The Lucie Cheurlin Champagne, normally £30, on offer at £15.99, is an appetisingly dry style, with bright fresh fruit and aromatics and creamy texture, light on its feet with a fine, rich mousse and delicately balanced finish. For delivery details, check out http://www.31dover.com/delivery

Something for The Weekend

Night in

2013 Paul Mas Marsanne

With a subtle touch of oak for added polish, this is a delightfully aromatic dry southern French white from the quality-minded Jean-Claude Mas with bright, opulently peachy fruit richness etched with an incisive apply bite on the finish. £7.99, The Co-operative.

Dinner Party

2013 Mâcon La Roche Vineuse, Domaine Chêne

Affordable white Burgundy is a laudable aim and it’s achieved in this accomplished and full-flavoured Mâconnais chardonnay whose stonefruit and apple richness is accompanied by a refreshingly balanced zing and typically nutty dry finish. £13, Marks & Spencer.

Splash Out

2011 Tenuta Chiccheri Valpolicella Ripasso

The ripasso technique involves adding the grapeskins of amarone to the fermenting wine for richness and intensity of liquid cherry fruit flavour, here skilfully rounded out with a polished touch of oak while retaining a natural, balancing freshness. £20, Oddbins.