If you were to visit a Disneyland of wine, you might expect grandiose castles with crimson turrets and golden gates, ‘classical’ statues with fountains, marble receptions rooms and wine museums, and come across hokey names like Chateau Bacchus, Chateau De Da and Saint Louis Ding. All this, and much more, exists, in China’s Ningxia province two hours west of Beijing by air.

While evidence of the cultural cringe may be palpable, Ningxia’s development as a major wine region is a serious proposition. China is determined to become a world power in wine and not to rely so heavily on overseas imports for the home consumption of finer wines. Offering generous subsidies to make it work, the provincial government has come up with a plan to turn this remote northern region into China’s answer to Bordeaux.

There are some 60 wineries today with plans to double the number and expand the 30,000 hectares of vineyard to 66,000. The Chinese giant, Chateau Changyu Moser XV, opened its sixth château here on 18 August. The state-owned food powerhouse, Cofco Great Wall, is building a winery the size of an airport terminal. Joining the party, Moët Hennessy’s Chandon brand has big plans for fizz and Pernod-Ricard is already producing wines in the mould of its own Jacob’s Creek with its Domaine Helan Mountain wines.

Sitting at 1200 metres at the eastern foot of the Helan Mountain range, Ningxia’s abundance of water from the Yellow River, its moderate climate and varied soil types are already yielding a handful of surprisingly delicious red wines. The best are from small wineries such as Emma Gao’s Silver Heights and JiaBeiLan, which surprised the world by winning an international trophy at the Decanter World Wine Awards in 2011. It looks like we will soon see some of the current cream of the crop here in the UK.

On the minus side, Ningxia can reach -27C in winter so the vines have to be buried to prevent them from dying. Mixed vineyards, unhealthy vines and an old-fashioned quantity over quality mentality among the many small growers prevails. And no-one is quite sure yet which grape varieties will work best here or if the local cabernet gernischt, believed to be the same grape as Chile’s carmenère, is a commercial proposition.

With the provincial capital of Yinchuan nearby, draw cards such as the tomb of Xi Xia King and ancient rock pictograms make wine tourism a reality. Eyeing Ningxia’s success story, the neighbouring province of Inner Mongolia has just announced a 1 billion yuan (£100m) wine development plan. Thanks to a vast, expanding middle class with the cash to splash on its relish for eating and drinking, China is becoming the new frontier of wine and Ningxia spearheading its next Cultural Revolution.

Something for The Weekend

Something for the Weekend Saturday 19 October

Night in

2012 Domaine de Montval Syrah, PGI Pays du Gard

A vibrant southern French syrah in Crozes Hermitage mould showing milled pepper notes beneath a succulently juicy blackberryish fruit quality underpinned by bright, fresh tapenade and garrigue herb characters . £9,99, buy 2 = £6.99, Majestic.

Dinner Party

2011 Château du Gazin

Showing that it’s possible to find excellent claret under £10, albeit with discount, this is a stylish modern blend displaying rich cassis fruit edged with chocolatety notes. Decant and tell guests it’s Lafite. £8.99, down from £11.99, until 29 October, Waitrose.

Splash Out

2011 Rosso di Montalcino Fuligni Ginestreto

A mini-Brunello di Montalcino in style, this vivid Tuscan rosso is made from sangiovese in a vibrant style with a clarity of cherryish fruit that’s defined by purity of texture and savoury freshness. £19.50, Lea & Sandeman (02072440522).

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