‘Considering how long it’s taken Europe, the Australian wine regional map has come rapidly into sharp focus in just two decades’. Pontificating on the remarkable progress of Australian wine, I was taken aback when one student asked me if this progress was down to good PR. After just attending the Australia Day wine tasting, the answer was an emphatic no. True, Australia’s PR has been an asset, but the tasting underlined that Australia’s success in becoming the UK’s favourite wine country, with sales of nearly 19 million cases last year, is based on substance rather than form.

Chardonnay is the grape that most symbolizes this progress. Ubiquitous tropical fruit flavours once described as ‘bottled sunshine’ have given way to truly great chardonnays capable of rivaling all but the greatest white burgundies. Thanks to locations in cooler climate areas, a focus on the vineyard and less overt oak, we now see wines like the intensely full-flavoured, richly peachy 2010 Heggies Vineyard Eden Valley Chardonnay, around £22.99, Berry Bros. (0800 280 2440), Majestic, and the opulent, yet finely textured, elegant 2009 Kooyong Faultline Chardonnay, £35, Great Western Wines (01225 322810), and the complex, nutty, burgundian-style 2010 Ocean Eight Verve Chardonnay £26.00 Harvey Nichols.

In its dry rieslings from the Clare and Eden Valleys, Australia also makes world class dry whites, witness for instance the superbly concentrated rich apple fruit succulence and bite of the 2010 Skillogalee Trevarrick Riesling £21.50, Great Western Wine, Slurp.co.uk, and the apple and lemon juiciness of the 2011 Clos Clare Watervale Riesling, £23.50, Swig.co.uk , with its refreshingly zesty dry bite.

No other country produces ageworthy semillon as characterful as Australia, whether from Barossa, with the smoky, lemon and lime toastiness of the 2010 Bethany Semillon, £11.99, down from £14.99, Ocado, until Tuesday, or Margaret River, whose 2009 Vasse Felix Semillon, £12.99, Marks & Spencer, displays herbal freshness and a rich lemon drizzle cake like richness and tang. Others argue that the Hunter Valley is best at this style and in wines of the class and zesty fresh lemon and grapefruit of the 2005 McWilliams Mount Single Vineyard Lovedale Semillon, £17.95, Berry Bros & Rudd, Peter Green, Edinburgh (0131 229 5925), they may well be right.

If that weren’t enough to show an enviable degree of diversity, trials with new grapes are starting to bear exciting fruit. The most enticing wine of this kind I tasted was the 2010 Fox Gordon Adelaide Hills Princess Fiano, £15, Theatre of Wine (020 8858 6363). From a southern Italian variety that retains character and acidity in a warm climate, the Adelaide Hills version is slightly smoky with undertones of liquorice spice, its juicy apricot-like fruit richness immensely alluring. I aim to return to Oz soon with a look at its reds.

Something for the Weekend

Something For the Weekend 18 February

Couch Potato

2009 Codorníu Vintage Rosado Cava

There’s a refreshing strawberryish pzazz to this berry-scented Spanish fizz made from native Catalonian grapes and a dash of pinot noir, whose refreshingly dry finish makes it a fun weekend party fizz. Currently down from £13.99 to £6.99, Tesco.

Dining In

2007 Barbaresco Umberto Fiore

Floral and cherry and plum fruit aromatics, attractively juicy sweet and sour cherryish nebbiolo with the typical grip and lean fresh acidity of the variety. Typical of Barbaresco in all respects except for its relatively moderate price. £11.99, Marks & Spencer.

Splash Out

2010 David Reynaud Crozes Hermitage

Stylish Northern Rhône syrah showing classic aromas of violets and pepper and intensely flavoured, succulently textured blackberry infused with pepper and allspice. £18.99, Noel Young Wines (01223 844744), Carruthers & Kent (0191 213 1818) The Secret Cellar (01892 537981).