Missing the recent London Sherry trail, aka tapas bar crawl, didn’t prevent me from taking in the new sherry and cava bar phenomenon that’s adding a dimension to the proliferating tapas bar scene. Hot on the heels of Bar Pepito, Rosita and Copa de Cava comes Drakes Tabanco. Tim Luther and Nigel Howell’s authentic tavern serves excellent Fernando de Castilla sherries from the cask and sells them to take away.

The ghost of ancient vicars and maiden aunts has been laid thanks to drier, fresher and innovative styles such as en rama (sherry bottled unfiltered from the cask). A fresh manzanilla with olives and almonds or fino with slices of jamón iberico is so often an appetite whetter not just for typical dishes such as croquetas and Spanish omelette but exciting modern styles of cooking inspired by the likes of Ferran Adrià and José Pizarro.

The fact that many of the great sherry bodegas as such as Lustau and Barbadillo have decent stocks means that the prices for fine sherries makes them one of the most undervalued drinks in the world. For refreshingly briney, dry manzanilla, try Morrisons Signature Premium Manzanilla, £5.99, 37.5 cl. or the savoury, mouthwateringly dry Hidalgo La Gitana Manzanilla, 50 cl, £7.99, Sainsbury’s, and, in fino, the intensely aromatic and sea-salty-dry Waitrose Solera Jerezana Fino de Puerto, £9.75, 75 cl.

Finally, two great palo cortado sherries, a cross between amontillado and oloroso . Marks & Spencer Dry Old Cortado, 37.5 cl, £7.49, displays intense flavours of crème brulée and butterscotch with a bone dry nutty flourish, while Majestic’s superb new range of Pedro sherries from Peter Dauthieu includes a fabulously rich yet nuttily dry apricot and caramel toffee Almacenista Selection Palo Cortado, 75 cl, £14.99. Salud!

Something for The Weekend

Something for the Weekend 9 November 2013

Night In

2012 Pasico Old Vine Monastrell Shiraz

From Bodegas Juan Gil in Spain’s South East, this is a sweetly fragrant pasta basher based on the Mourvèdre grape with a vivid unoaked dark berry and plum fruitiness marked by a light pepperiness and lively freshness. £5.99, Sainsbury’s.

Dinner Party

2008 Marqués de Riscal Rioja Reserva

Garnet and delightfully mature in its sweet, gamey aromas, this is a classic rioja blend of mostly tempranillo with dollops of graciano and mazuelo, showing sweetly smoky cherryish fruit that’s maturing gracefully into mellow, savoury middle age. £14.99, Morrisons.

Splash Out

Duval-Leroy Fleur de Champagne

Based on the 2009 harvest, this fine non-vintage fizz blend from Duval-Leroy displays classic biscuity characters which imbue the creamy mousse of bubbles with mouthfilling flavours and bring a satisfyingly stylish dry aftertaste. £30.99, down to £19.99 until 3 December, Waitrose.