A French wine ad with the slogan ‘au gout de la vie’ has recently been banned as illegal for linking wine to enjoyment. Just as well that we live in a civilised country because otherwise I might be in trouble if I mentioned that the new-release burgundy 2013 vintage might just be enjoyable. Since I was busy tasting a selection of wines currently on offer en primeur (i.e. pay now, drink later), it seemed a good time to find out.

2013 was another small vintage in burgundy. Variable summer weather with storms and rain coupled with an abnormally late harvest made for challenging conditions. Meticulous vineyard management and conscientious cellar work were called for in the circumstances. The result is a sheep-and-goats-separating year, with ‘much better than they dared hope for’ as one merchant summed it up, probably about right.

There are two basic issues in any pre-release offer. Is it a good, better still great, vintage and is it worth forking out for? First impressions are that 2013 won’t go down in memory as a vintage of the century, nor even of the decade. Quality is variable. Some whites have achieved the delicate balancing act of purity, minerality and freshness, while others are a little green around the gills. Most will be ready to drink young. There’s a plethora of disappointingly scrawny reds, but the best at premier and grand cru level, have the perfume, flesh and backbone to mature nicely in bottle.

It’s typical of burgundy, especially in a vintage fraught with difficulties, that you encounter a kaleidoscope of contradictory opinions, and so it is with the 2013s. Some wine merchants seem more enamoured with the whites, others with the reds. Some think they should be drunk young, others that they need time in bottle to show at their best. Given that burgundy is a wine that appeals so much to the senses, it’s not surprising that chacun à son gout is the watchword.

I’m writing, but not writing home, about burgundy 2013, although I remain cautiously optimistic about some of the wines. I think that there are a handful of good buys at relatively reasonable prices in both reds and whites at around the £20 - £25 mark. The weak euro has compensated to a small but barely noticeable extent.

A PR recently asked me if I’d like to try some everyday burgundies, my first oxymoron of the year. For most of us burgundy is not an everyday pleasure but a treat, and in that light, 2013 includes some treats that will give pleasure over the short to medium term. Whisper it quietly though; the French authorities might overhear. Check out anthonyrosewine.com for a selection of my ‘not quite everyday’ burgundy picks and where to buy.

Something for The Weekend

Night In

2013 Adi Badenhorst Kalander Red

From one of trendy Swartland’s pioneers of old vine wine production, Adi Badenhorst, this is a full-flavoured, dark berry-fruited blend of shiraz, mourvèdre and cinsault in peppery Côtes du Rhône style only with a bit more juicy oomph. £7.99, Morrisons.

Dinner Party

2012 Famille Perrin Vinsobres, Réserve du Mistral

Vinsobres is growing into one of those southern Rhône reds that can offer great value, as with this bright, vivid, loganberry-fruited Syrah and Grenache blend etched with vivid freshness from the quality-minded Perrin family. £14, Marks & Spencer.

Splash Out

2012 Cherubino Chardonnay, Margaret River.

An accomplished dry white displaying subtle citrus and grilled hazelnut aromas with a restrained yet opulent richness of flavour supported by butterscotchy undertones and vivid, grapefruit zesty finish. £23.71 - £29.99, The Drink Shop, Exel Wines, SH Jones, Secret Cellar.

Ends

2013 BURGUNDY WORTH BUYING

(Prices are in bond, so add VAT and duty on delivery later this year or early next year).

White

Bourgogne Blanc, Domaine Darviot-Perrin. £78 / 6. Howard Ripley
Bourgogne Blanc, Domaine Roulot. £96 / 6. Howard Ripley
Bourgogne Blanc, Cuvée Oligocène, Ptrick Javillier. £170 / 12. Goedhuis.
Bourgogne Blanc, Domaine Bernard Moreau. £114 / 12. Flint Wines
Bourgogne Blanc, Cuvée des Forgets, Domaine Patrick Javillier. £140 / 12, Corney & Barrow
Bouzeron, Domaine A & P De Villaine. £165 / 12. Corney & Barrow
Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Lechet, Domaine Bernard Defaix,, £110 / 12. Flint Wines
Chablis grand Cru Bougros, Domaine Vincent Dampt. £330 / 12. Corney & Barrow.
Saint Romain, Domaine Matrot. £190 / 12. Corney & Barrow
Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière, Domaine Hubert Lamy. £295 / 12. Flint Wines
Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Sous Roche Dumay, Domaine Bernard Moreau. £210 / 12. Flint Wines
Saint-Aubin 1er Cru, Murgers de Dents de Chien, Maison Benjamin Leroux. £150 / 6. Howard Ripley
Saint-Aubin Blanc 1er Cru Les Charmois, Domaine Paul Pillot. £225 / 12. Goedhuis.
Saint-Aubin Blanc 1er Cru Sur le Sentier du Clou, Domaine Marc Colin. £240 / 12. Goedhuis.
Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru la Maltroye, Domaine Heitz-Lochardet. £195 / 6. Flint Wines
Chassagne-Montrachet, Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard. £120 / 6. Howard Ripley
Chassagne-Montrachet, 1er Cru Les Vergers, Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard. £165 / 6. Howard Ripley
Chassagne Montrachet 1er cru Mazures, Domaine Paul Pillot. £298 / 12 . Goedhuis.
Chassagne Montrachet 1er cru Les Caillerets, Domaine Paul Pillot. £460 / 12 . Goedhuis.
Chassagne Montrachet 1er cru Les Champs Gains, Domaine Paul Pillot. £440 / 12. Goedhuis.
Meursault, Maison Benjamin Leroux. £156 / 6. Howard Ripley
Meursault Le Meix Sous le Château, Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet. £330 / 12. Goedhuis & Co.
Meursault Les Gruyaches Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet. £396 / 12. Goedhuis & Co.
Meursault Les Tillets, Patrick Javillier. £310 / 12. Goedhuis & Co.
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Demoiselles, Domaine Colin-Deleger. £470 / 6. Goedhuis.

Red

Bourgogne Rouge Cuvée du Noble Souche, Domaine Denis Mortet. £210 / 12. Goedhuis.
Fixin Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Denis Mortet. £315 / 12. Goedhuis.
Marsannay Les Grasses Têtes, Domaine Coillot. £132 / 12. Flint Wines
Savigny-Lès-Beaune 1er Cru aux Vergelesses, Domaine Simon Bize. £355 / 12. Goedhuis.
Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Bel Air, Domaine Tapenot Merme. £265 / 6. Flint Wines
Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaut Saint Jacques, Domaine Duroché. £240 / 6. Flint Wines
Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint Jacques, Denis Mortet. £495 / 6. Flint Wines
Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru La Chapelle, Domaine Rossignol-Trapet. £495 / 12 . Corney & Barrow.
Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Clos des Varoilles, M0nopole, Domaine des Varoilles. £255 / 6. Corney & Barrow.
Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Estournelles –Saint-Jacques, Domaine Frédéric Esmonin. £162/ 6. Howard Ripley
Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru La Combe Aux Moines, Domaine Fourrier. £396 / 6. Howard Ripley
Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Les Champeaux, Maison Roche de Bellène. £445 / 12. Goedhuis. Goedhuis.
Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques, Domaine Fourrier. £372/ 3. Howard Ripley
Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Craipillot, Domaine Drouhin-Laroze. £430 / 12. Goedhuis.
Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Cherbaudes, Domaine Fourrier. POA (i.e, sorry, you can’t afford it) Goedhuis
Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint Jacques, Domaine Denis Mortet. £545 / 6. Goedhuis.
Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Petits Plets, Domaine de L’Arlot. £165 / 6. Corney & Barrow.
Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos des Forêts Saint-Georges, Domaine de L’Arlot. £258 - 290 / 6. Howard Ripley, Corney & Barrow. £545 / 12, Goedhuis.
Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots, Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg. £288 / 6. Howard Ripley
Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos de la Maréchale, Domaine Frédéric Mugnier. £264 / 6. Howard Ripley
Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos des Corvées Pagets, Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux. £345 / 6. Howard Ripley
Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Murgers, Domaine Hudelot-Noellat. £295 / 6. Goedhuis
Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens, Domaine de Montille. £370 / 12. Flint Wines
Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots, Domaine Hudelot-Noellat. £370 -384 / 6. Goedhuis, Howard Ripley
Vosne Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots, Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot. £330 / 6. Flint Wines

FEATURED SPECIALIST BURGUNDY MERCHANTS AND INDEPENDENTS WITH OFFERS OF 2013 BURGUNDY

Corney & Barrow 020 7265 2430 www.corneyandbarrow.com
Flint Wines 020 582 2500 www.fintwines.com
Goedhuis 020 7978 6090 www.goedhuis.com
Howard Ripley 020 8748 2608 www.howardripley.com

MORE SPECIALIST BURGUNDY MERCHANTS AND INDEPENDENTS WITH OFFERS (OR LIKLEY OFFERS) OF 2013 BURGUNDY

AB Vintners
Armit
Berry Bros & Rudd
Bordeaux Index
The Burgundy Portfolio
Charles Hawkins
Charles Taylor (Montrachet)
Fells
Clark Foyster
Genesis
Hatch Mansfield
Haynes Hanson & Clark
Jeroboams
Justerini & Brooks
Lay & Wheeler
Lea & Sandeman
Liberty Wines
Louis Latour
Mentzendorff
OW Loeb
A&B Vintners
Averys
Bancroft
Bibendum
Bowes Wine
Christopher Piper Wines
Clarion
Davis, Bell & McCraith Wines
Fine & Rare Wines
Farr Vintners
FromVineyardsDirect.com
Great Western Wine
H2Vin
Handford Wines
Charles Hawkins
Hicks & Don
HS Liquid Assets
Daniel Lambert Wines
Noel Young Wines
Private Cellar
Raeburn
Roberson
Robert Rolls
The Sampler
Seckford
Slurp.co.uk
Tanners
Ten-Acre Wines
Uncorked
The Vineking
The Wine Society